Travelogue

AI Tango

AI Tango

I'm standing next to a man, each of us holding a glass of El Enemigo. Mine is half empty, his half-full. He's a bit t...
Eye of the Day

Eye of the Day

It is almost impossible to walk into a Parisian bar and not partake in spirits—just as it is impossible to resist the...
The Jester is Dead, Long Live the Fool!

The Jester is Dead, Long Live the Fool!

I found myself back in Paris, standing in one of the many antique shops on Rue Saint-Paul, staring at an old Tarot ca...
Stay Strange

Stay Strange

Bewitched by The Lady and the Unicorn tapestries at the Musée de Cluny, I went “medieval” and headed northeast of Par...
To My Only Desire

To My Only Desire

The phrase "come to your senses" is usually offered as a call to reason. But Charles Bukowski's line—"Some people nev...
From the Underworld to the Louvre: A Soliloquy on Pleasure

From the Underworld to the Louvre: A Soliloquy on Pleasure

Aesthetic gluttony may as well be a cardinal sin. The Louvre, like an all-you-can-eat buffet, is simply indigestible ...
The Painter and the Emperor — Centaurs of History

The Painter and the Emperor — Centaurs of History

If there’s such a thing as a Cubist painting in words, it must be Gertrude Stein’s 1923 poem “If I Told Him: A Comple...
Shattered Mirrors and Syncopated Truths

Shattered Mirrors and Syncopated Truths

Have you ever had foie gras de canard on toast with a bit of fig jam? It’s an unctuous pâté with a deep, savory richn...
The Sphinx Puzzle — Eroticism and Death

The Sphinx Puzzle — Eroticism and Death

Some mysteries exist undeniably, yet defy full explanation: gravity, consciousness... and eroticism — that magnetic f...
On Versailles, Kidney Stones, and Dissonance

On Versailles, Kidney Stones, and Dissonance

I never cared much for the Palace of Versailles — all that suffocating excess topped with swarms of tourists. It’s li...
A Journey Through the Visible and Invisible Conciergeries

A Journey Through the Visible and Invisible Conciergeries

With caffeine still buzzing in my veins, I was about to enter a place where history lingers not for hours but for cen...
Give Me Coffee or Give Me Death — Coffee Houses and Revolution

Give Me Coffee or Give Me Death — Coffee Houses and Revolution

Parisians may protest — I don’t care — but Rome has better coffee. The downside (or upside, depending on your tempera...